One month down, 26 to go!

This last week has been jam packed with travel. Last Sunday afternoon into the evening I was in Masis, which is about an hour from Akunk. On Monday, I took a field trip with nine other volunteers all the way to Stepanavan to visit GLOW Camp. Stepanavan is about a three-hour drive through the Armenian countryside. Girls Leading Our World is a worldwide organization, with Armenia’s version  a six-day camp with 40 participants happening once a year.

I had a day off on Tuesday (meaning I didn’t leave Akunk and had class all day).  Then on Wednesday the whole group went into Yerevan for the day. Armenia’s capital city is much like any other Western city. There’s a lot of traffic, stores, cafes, restaurants and even a Marriot. And, just like every other city in the world, it’s much more stuffy and hotter than the country. Thursday and Friday were both low key, but still full days of school.  Yesterday (Saturday) was a very long day. In the morning, we had a morning cross cultural session and language class in the afternoon. Afterwards, I rushed home to prepare for my twenty-two year old h.sister’s engagement party. Her fiancé is currently serving his mandatory two years of service in the army. He just finished up his first year and is home on break for ten days.

The Armenian engagement process is slightly different from that of the American one. There is an informal agreement between the couple and later, they become engaged at the party itself. Prior to the party, the bride and groom families come together and agree upon a date. At the party, the groom’s family arrives jointly in a procession, presenting the ring and other gifts (like 30 year old brandy). 

 Shortly after all the formal greetings, toasts begin. There are so many throughout the evening, mostly made by men. It was a tight squeeze in our makeshift banquet room, so I quickly learned how to eat an entire meal with my left hand. I probably looked incredibly ridiculous. Sitting across from me was the groom’s grandfather. Seeing that I understand 3% of what is being said, I watch everyone around me most of the time. This man was so hilarious and interesting. He made a lot of toasts right off the bat and for every toast, the men take a shot of vodka. All booze is drank out of shot glasses, even wine.

About 20 minutes in he got really emotional during a toast and started crying. It was short lived because it was time to eat. He wrapped meat and cheese inside a lavash wrap. He then reached into his pocket to whip out his own personal knife. He proceeded to cut this meat and cheese sandwich into tiny, tiny pieces. I was avidly watching him and as I looked up, he was smiling at me and pointed to his one tooth!  After this, we were friends. A little later on, he was making yet another toast and looked straight at me and said, “WOMAN! WHAT ARE YOU DRINKING?!” That cracked everyone in the room up, and then I was poured some more brandy.

He kept shaking my hand and winking at me the whole meal. I was having a swell time laughing at everything because well, they were laughing.  Papik (grandpa) was saying many toasts to me. Eventually, my h.uncle asked if I knew what he was saying and of course, I didn’t. He said something along the lines of “You beautiful American will be my wife for a short time”. My uncle asked me if I agreed, I did. Papik was pretty drunk after awhile and passed out in the bedroom.

Even though I couldn’t understand what was being said around me, I had a really good time. They had me toast my host sister in English and Armenian at different times. At the end of the night, my host sister's kids were blasting music in Grigor's industrial van. Nelly's "Just A Dream" came on and I experienced yet another surreal moment. I flashbacked to living in Boston and not knowing if Peace Corps was going to happen at all. Now that it's my reality, it sometimes feels like a dream.